How To Replace an Old Lawn

If you want to replace an old lawn with a new one, there are two ways to do it.On the time you have to wait for your new lawn to be installed, sodded grass cuts back a lot.Grass that has been seeded can be more reliable.Either way, you will be able to replace your old patchy lawn with new grass.

Step 1: Remove weeds from your lawn.

Smothering your lawn will kill the grass and weeds.The smothering method is not dependent on the weather.Take care of the grass.Use black ink to cover it, as colored ink could contain metals.Wet the covering with grass clippings, compost, wood chips, or another organic mulch.Black plastic works as well.It will block the sun.Heavy mulching in shady areas causes the soil to warm up and cause too much water in the root zone.Compost can be made from the layers of your old lawn.The soil is ready to be planted.

Step 2: You can use solarization to remove the old lawn.

The sun’s heat kills the old grass by cooking it.The lawn needs to be covered with clear plastic for about 7 weeks.Things are slow on cloudy days.The hottest days are the best for solarization.The plastic should be removed when the grass is dead.You can either leave the dead grass as compost or remove it.More sunlight can get to the grass surface, so it’s better to have clear plastic.Thick plastic is more resistant to tears and will last longer.

Step 3: The old lawn should be removed using a weed killer.

There are pesticides that kill weeds, roots and grass.Follow all safety instructions, including the use of personal protective gear, if you read the full label before you start.Taking care to avoid nearby garden plants, mix the herbicide in accordance with the directions on the product, then apply it over the entire lawn.Select a weed killer that degrades quickly.This will make it easier to stay in the environment.Glyphosate is a wise choice.Adding just a few drops of dishwashing liquid soap or another surfactant will help the herbicide stick to the vegetation.The herbicide will dry quickly if you apply it on a sunny day.To avoid drifting, choose a day with little to no wind.If the turf isn’t dead, apply the herbicide.Wait about four weeks.Wait a week after the final application.Take care of the dead turf in your soil.

Step 4: The sod should be removed.

Grass that doesn’t have long roots is the best for sod removal.Grasses with roots that go down several feet are perennial.It is difficult to get all of it by cutting the sod.To make sod removal easier, kill the vegetation first.If you don’t have a sod cutter, rent one.They cost about $70.00 per day.You can use a flat shovel instead of a sod cutter.It is less expensive, but it is more labor intensive.The sod should be cut into strips.Roll up the strips after cutting the sod.You can use the sod for compost if you invert it.In 6 to 10 layers of newspaper, cover the inverted sod.The sod improves the soil.If the sod contains weeds or grasses, don’t leave it.You can use the inverted sod to fill in low places on your lawn.

Step 5: Test the soil.

The best way to treat your soil can be determined using a soil test.Cooperative Extension Services can analyze your soil.You can find them at a state university.A commercial testing kit can be used to test your soil.You can take multiple samples from different locations around the lawn and at different depths of the soil.You have to label each one clearly.

Step 6: It’s a good idea to grade the soil for your new lawn.

Once the old lawn has been removed, do this.The ground should slope away from your house in all directions if you want to fix existing grade problems.It should fall about 2 12 inches every 10 feet.If the grading adjustments are minor, use a landscaping rake.Water the area and fill it with soil from the high spots on your lawn.The finished grade should be close to the patio or sidewalk.If you are adding amendments to the soil than you should adjust the grading depth to about 2 inches (5 cm) lower than the fixed surfaces.

Step 7: Before planting your lawn, amend the soil.

Prepare the soil of your lawn for grass seeds now that you are starting from scratch.The site of your new lawn can be amended with organic matter, lime, sulfur orfertilizer.Don’t cultivate the soil too much.The hard surface of the soil prevents seeds from emerging.To allow seeds to grow, aim for soil that isn’t dense.

Step 8: You should seed the lawn.

The best time to plant lawns started from seed is in the fall or spring.To allow a 6 inch to 1 foot overlap of seeds, walk at a slow, steady pace and sow the seed evenly from a spreader.Apply a thin topdressing of soil and work the seed gently into the ground after using an inverted plastic rake.Pick the seed that works best for your lawn.The seed-seller can make a recommendation.The seeds can be distributed with a drop-spreader.The drop-spreader has a dropper.The size hole you should use is suggested by most lawn products.The drop spreader is good for lawns under 4,000 square feet.For lawns over 4,000 feet, use a broadcast spreader.They allow for a bigger distribution of seeds.Sprinkle seed by hand in tight corners.

Step 9: It’s a good idea to apply afertilizer.

Your local lawn and garden supplier can help you choose the right fertilization for your lawn.If you expect hot, dry weather, cover the seeds with a thin layer of mulch.

Step 10: The lawn needs to be water thoroughly.

Don’t wash the seeds.Keep the area moist until the grass starts to grow.Water for brief periods of time.Try for four or more times a day when the weather is warm.

Step 11: Take care of your new lawn.

After the grass has grown a third taller than its optimum height, it’s time to mow.To avoid damaging the new roots, use sharp, straight, undamaged mower blades.For more cut and growth, mow in different directions.

Step 12: For the first 3-6 weeks, watch your lawn closely.

For the first 3-6 weeks, don’t walk on the lawn.Remove weeds in 6 weeks if they are still a problem.Spot spraying is more effective than hand pulling.Most broadleaf control products will kill the grass seedlings if they are applied too often.

Step 13: Test the soil.

You will need to confirm that the base of your lawn site is a good fit for the sod you’ll order.It will be sent to a lab for analysis for about US$15.

Step 14: The soil should be graded for your new lawn.

As you prepare for sod to arrive, avoid too much slope for your new lawn.For every four feet, the maximum slope is twelve inches.You might need to build a retaining wall if your slope is greater than that.Water the site with a hose.Take a look at areas where puddles have formed.Use a rake to fill in the low areas on your lawn.The finished grade should be level with the surrounding areas.Allow an additional 2 inches (5 cm) of depth if the soil test report suggests you need to amend it.

Step 15: You should buy your sod.

A mix of two to three turf grasses is usually ordered from a sod farm or a garden center.The supplier should be aware of your lawn’s sun conditions before placing the order.Measure the square-footage of your lawn to make sure you get the right amount of sod.It is best to cover cutting around curves…5% over should do the trick.

Step 16: The sod must be laid the same day it arrives.

Two people can cover a lot of sod in a day.If your yard is larger, you might want to get some help from your friends to install the sod.The first strip of sod should be laid in the longest section of the yard.During installation, keep off the sod.Place the sod against the soil so that it is flat.Next row of sod.Cut the sod in half and lay it in a staggered design.Roll out in the same direction.If your lawn is rolled in different directions, it will look different at first, and the seams may be harder to lay with adjacent strips.Make sure the sod is snug against each other.Continue this process for your entire lawn, cutting sections and staggering them as you lay them down.If you plan on using the ground sprinklers, you can cut holes in the sod.The sections of sod that are abut paved should be trimmed with a knife.

Step 17: Take out the lawn.

Walk over your lawn in different directions if you fill a lawn roller half full with water.The root base of the sod will be firmly in contact with the soil as a result of this press down.

Step 18: The newly sodded lawn needs to be watered frequently.

Just to the point of puddling, then stop.Depending on the weather, you may need to repeat this more than once a day to keep the seeds from drying out.If left damp overnight, over watering can cause good soil contact and encourage diseases.In the early stages, keep foot traffic to a minimum.

Step 19: The lawn should be mowed and fertilized.

The grass should be cut down to 2 inches when it reaches 3 inches.The grass is still fragile, so use a regular lawnmower.If the grass is allowed to grow taller and cut on the highest setting, it will fare better in the heat of summer.The taller growth helps retain water.Fertilizing the lawn after three to four weeks of growth.This will be used to replace the lost nutrients.