How To Choose a Draw Weight for Your Recurve Bow

A recurve bow has a measure of how hard it is to pull the string back.When starting out, many people choose too high of a draw weight because they have drawn weight egos.People who start off too high may eventually lose interest in archery and this is detrimental to your ability to shoot accurately and have fun.The draw weight with # is a commonly used symbol.The draw weight is 30#.

Step 1: Don’t develop an ego.

Having a high draw weight is not a sign of being a good archer.A person struggling with a 60# bow and only being able to pull it back 3 or 4 times is more impressive than a person shooting a 30# Bow into the gold ring every time.People who want to look impressive are more likely to have this happen.If you want to get good at archery, do not do this.

Step 2: Don’t use bad advice that overestimates what you should do.

Some people suggest that you start with a high draw weight.If you are sky drawing, having to use all your effort to draw the bow back, and shaking when you try to aim, do you think you will enjoy archery?Absolutely not!Go with what you are comfortable with.Some of the inaccurate information comes from compound archers.At full draw, compounds have a let-off feature where you only hold about 15-20% of the weight.You can only hold 11# at full draw if you have a 70# compound bow.If you have a 70# recurve, you will be holding it all the time.If a person suggests a draw weight to you based on your age, do not trust them.Your age makes it difficult to pull a bow.

Step 3: Consider your strength.

Body frame does affect what your draw weight should be, but not as much as other sports.Even an extremely fit person should not start archery at more than 35#.Archery uses muscles in your back such as the rhomboids, trapezius, and latissimus dorsi.If you are a beginner archer, start at 15 to 25# depending on how often you will shoot.The beginning children are usually a bit weaker and should start at 10.

Step 4: Factor in the length of your draw.

All recurves are manufactured to an industry standard.There is a draw.If you have a 28-inch draw length, you will pull 30# on the bow.If your draw length is shorter than 28 in, you will pull less.Measure your wingspan from the tip of your middle finger and divide it by 2.5 to calculate your draw length.2.5# per inch is the estimated increase or decrease in poundage.A bow scale will give more accuracy.If your draw length is 25 inches, you will draw about 24# on a 30# bow.If your draw length is over 30 inches, you should get a taller bow to prevent stacking or an increase in draw weight.

Step 5: You can try a bow for yourself.

You can rent a bow or take a class.You’ll learn proper form and feel each draw weight out to see what’s right for you.This helps you choose the right bow the first time, because you can’t really know until you try.If you want to know if you can handle the draw weight, use it for more than 30 minutes.If the seller tries to convince you that a bow they have will be perfect for you, even if it’s not what you’re looking for, they are most likely just trying to make a sale.A salesperson can push you into buying a compound bow if you are looking for a takedown recurve.How would you feel if you did it dozens of times?Don’t underestimate yourself.

Step 6: Think about the future now.

What do you want to do as an archer?Are you interested in hunting or shooting targets?It will be easier to define your bow and accessories if you have a goal.If you want to do target archery, you should consider a takedown bow or ILF riser.

Step 7: Purchase the right bow.

It’s important that you don’t buy what worked for someone else, but what works for you.If you want to add accessories, think about your discipline, riser material, size and eye dominance.If you can rent from a club in the time being, don’t rush the process, it might take some time.Since you will probably move up in a couple of months, you don’t need a high-end set of limbs.You won’t grow out of a quality riser unless you compete in tournaments.

Step 8: Do you know if your draw weight is high?

You could have started with a bow that was too heavy.If you need to point it at the sky, collapse your bow shoulder, or start shaking, you started too high.The test is to bend your waist and point the bow at the ground with your bow hand near the side of your knee.If you can’t draw the bow to your anchor point, you are over-bowed.If it is a takedown recurve, you should either buy a new bow or limbs.If you start at 30# and it’s too high, you can recover with practice and exercises.

Step 9: When you are ready, know it.

You should be able to hold your bow steady for a minute.If you feel fatigued, shoot for an hour.If you feel like you want to collapse, it’s a good sign that you aren’t ready to increase your draw weight.Do not move up if you shake like a leaf after holding for 30 seconds.If you want someone else’s opinion, get it from a coach or experienced archer.Not compound, not longbow, and not horse-bow.Lift your feet off the ground by sitting on a chair.You can move up some weight if you can pull the string to your anchor point.

Step 10: Do you have a purpose for moving up in draw weight?

40# bows are used by Olympic shooters for shooting 70 meters.There is a legal requirement for hunting or shooting further distances and you should have a reason to increase your draw weight.35# is enough for a hobby or backyard shooting.You will need a 35-45# for hunting deer in some areas.To ensure a clean, ethical kill, you will need up to 55#.When you shoot longer distances, higher draw weights give you flatter trajectory and less adjustment of sight.You don’t have to aim over the target to account for your arrow’s arcs.

Step 11: Consider how many arrows you shoot.

If you only shoot 15-20 arrows a session, you can use a 10# or 5# jump.If you pull back a higher draw weight, you don’t shoot enough times to be tired.If you shoot from 80-100 arrows per session, move up by 2# or 4# if you can have the least impact on your training.As you draw back the bow more and more, you need to have as little change as possible to stay on the right track.

Step 12: Know how much you need to move up by.

It’s fine to move up by 5# or 10# at a time.Extra exercises and practice will help you adjust.If you want to grow into the bow without losing too much time, it’s best to increase your draw weight by 2 to 3# each jump.If you want to move up 2# at a time, a club may have a system to trade out limbs.They can give you general advice about your form and have good targets to shoot at.

Step 13: You can choose a new bow.

If you want to fit your bow at a different draw weight, you can buy more limbs from the same manufacturer.You can match the limbs/riser with any other ILF limbs.The old riser has limits on how much it can take so you may need a new one.The cheapest risers max out at 35#.Keep your old limbs/bow as a practice set so you can relax and practice form on that set or warm-up using a lower draw weight.

Step 14: Get used to the new weight.

While adjusting to a higher draw weight, there are some exercises you can do.SPF, or Specific Physical Training, can be done using a bow or resistance bands.If you want to use good form, draw back your bow for 15 seconds.In this case, you would rest for 30 seconds before starting again.Gradually increase the amount that you hold your bow.To draw your bow back, build shoulder muscles.Try single arm dumbbell rows, dumbbell side lifts, and forearm planks.Back tension can be used.Pretend you don’t have a bow.If you were trying to hold a tennis ball between your shoulder blades, you should squeeze them.Take most of the weight with your back to make it easier on your arms.