If you have a small selection of carpentry tools, you can build a kitchen table.The table has surface dimensions of 69″ x 46″If you want to change the plan to a different size, you can cut the boards to different lengths or use fewer boards.
Step 1: The lumber should be cut for the table.
If you don’t mind a rustic look, choose boards with as little warp as possible.Measure and mark the cut lines before cutting the lumber.The boards should be cut to 69 inches (180 cm) in length.If the saw is too small to make one cut, cut halfway through and then cut again.Refer to the end of the article for a list of supplies.If you want to change the dimensions of your table, draw a diagram first so you know how much lumber to buy.
Step 2: The table is placed on a flat surface.
The garage floor is a flattest surface you can find.Put the five 69″ boards in a row.If there is a major gap, try a different order for the boards.
Step 3: The pocket hole locations are marked.
Draw a series of marks on one side of the border between the two boards.This is where you’ll drill the pocket holes.You should mark two spots on each end of the board.
Step 4: The depth of the Kreg Jig should be adjusted.
The drill bit must be inserted into the depth guide before the step touches the 1.5 inch mark.The depth collar needs to be tightened with an allen wrench.The edge of the drill bit is between the steps.Don’t use the tip of the drill bit as a guide.
Step 5: The jig placement needs to be adjusted.
The screw on the back of the jig needs to be loosened.Raise or lower it until you reach the 1.5 inch mark.
Step 6: The pocket holes need to be drilled.
One of your marks should be centered on the edge of the board.You can make a pocket hole in the board by drilling through the hole on top of the Jig.Each board has a mark on it.It is possible to keep the board level by resting it on a 3/4″ spacer.Don’t forget the marks at the end of the board.To drill these, stand the board vertically.
Step 7: Take out the boards.
Put your boards in the same order after sweeping the floor of sawdust.Before you continue, confirm that the ends are clean.
Step 8: Attach the boards with the screws.
Place the screw into one of the pocket holes you just drilled, and then drill it into the boards together.Check the boards after you flush them to make sure they don’t shift.Each pocket hole has to be repeated between the two boards.If possible, glue the boards together.Heavy objects help to weigh down the boards.
Step 9: The surface should be sand.
Run your sander over the surface of the boards.
Step 10: The ends of the breadboard need to be cut.
Measure the width of your table to find out how long the ends should be.Cut two more lengths of 2×10 to this length.This should be about 4654″.
Step 11: Attach the ends of the board.
Line these up and flush the table.Attach the two boards with screws through the remaining pocket holes.Your table top is complete.
Step 12: To form the table ends, cut 4×4 lumber.
If you want to cut at an angle, you have to adjust the saw to do so.You’ll need two 4x4s to form the two ends of the table.
Step 13: Sand off the edges.
Run an orbital sander over the wood to smooth it out.
Step 14: Take out the end.
Put down one of the 43 “end top” as you lay out the table end.In the style of a picnic table, position two legs against the first board.Place a 3614″ board between the legs.The legs should be flush against each other and centered under the top board.
Step 15: Put the table together.
At each point where two boards touch, drill in three six-inch Torque screws.The second table should be the same as the first.It is easier to drill in the screws with an impact wrench.
Step 16: The long braces need lumber cut for them.
The end pieces should be on either side of the table.Before you cut the lumber, make sure the cut surfaces are smooth.
Step 17: Attach the brace to the pieces.
The top of the table ends are connected by a 4×4 braces.You can rest the brace on the floor by keeping the table ends upside down.Attach the ends of the brace with two or three screws.
Step 18: Attach the apron to the Jig.
The same 1.5″ setting is used to drill two pocket holes at each end of the 2×4.The table legs connect to the rest of the table by running between the two ends.The pocket holes should be drilled with the same screws as before.Stand the 2x4s vertically rather than laying them flat.
Step 19: Attach the last 4×4 brace.
You’ll have to attach this one in midair, running parallel with the other 4×4 between the two end braces.Either have a friend hold it in place or raise it.There are two or three screws for each end.
Step 20: Attach the base to a piece of furniture.
Place the base on top of the flat on the floor.The bottom of the boards have drill screws through them.There are two 4.5″ Torque screws near each end of the end top, and between the legs and along the central 4×4 brace.If you want to drill through the 2×4 apron boards, switch to 2.5 Torque screws.
Step 21: Attach the cut and diagonal braces.
The table should be flipped on its side.Measure the length of a line at a 45o angle from the end of the 4×4 to the lower brace.This should be about 2618″.Cut two 4x4s to this length so they are parallel with each other.Sand them, then drill them into the ground.
Step 22: A hand planer is needed to level the top.
If you used construction grade lumber, the surface may be rough.Wear down the offending areas with a hand planer.
Step 23: The table has sand on it.
The first thing to do is to use a 40-60 grit sanding pad.Next, sand the entire table with a higher grade of sand.It’s important to sand the sides of the table, especially where the breadboard ends attach to the main surface.The corners and top edge of the table can be smoothed out with the sander.
Step 24: It’s possible to distress the table.
If you prefer a well-worn look, you can mark the table with nail dents, saw marks, or any other surface damage you’d like to cause.
Step 25: The finish should be applied.
Follow the instructions on the wood finish of your choice, or refer to our detailed guide.Clean the finish with a rag.Wait a few hours for the finish to dry.You can make your own finish by dissolving steel wool.It takes about two or three days to open a Mason jar.Wait a few more hours and the liquid will turn into an amber color.
Step 26: The table needs to be sealed.
The wood’s color will be enhanced by a polyurethane Sealer.The wood needs to be brushed on two or three times to allow it to dry.Sand the table before each coat and wipe it off with a damp rag.Follow the instructions on the product.Wear a respiratory mask when working in aventilated area.To avoid losing bristles, use a well-made brush.